June 28th: Weymouth to Osmington Mills

A misty day on the Isle of Portland

Leaving The Ocean Guesthouse

Day 29. So I left my little Bed and Breakfast in Weymouth quite early in the morning - as I'm having to slow down a bit, sodding shin - and got a taxi back to Ferrybridge. From here I set my sights on the almost Island of Portland - only connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. The walk began on a main road, stretching nearly two miles, before joining the actual Coast Path again.

Climbed into the mist!

However, as I transitioned onto the Coast Path, the weather began to change and sadly the beauty of the area became obscured and shrouded in mist. There were no views to take in and it was difficult to get a feel for the area beyond the blanket of fog. The path was also the hardest to follow here and I went wrong on two or three occasions - I ended up walking 14.5 miles instead of 13 around Portland! Add to this the constant pain radiating from my shin and for the first time I was feeling low and really fed up.

Church Ope Cove with Rufus castle above

Pic 1) What I thought was Portland Bill Lighthouse. Pic 2) What was actually Portland Bill Lighthouse. Pic 3) A misty Portland Harbour

Feeling a bit discouraged I decided it was time for a break. I sought refuge in a nearby café, where I treated myself to a warm cup of coffee and some ice for my leg, hoping to alleviate the discomfort. I then got a cab back to my B&B and resumed my walk to Osmington Mills. To my delight, as I set out again, the mist lifted and the sun broke through the clouds, illuminating the stunning coastal views once again. My leg did not get any worse, and the pain became more manageable, and I quite enjoyed the remainder of the walk.

Black Head Beach ahead!

Pics 1 & 2) Weymouth Beach. Pic 3) Black Head

Eventually, I arrived at my Airbnb in Osmington, which was a gorgeous thatched cottage like something out of a storybook. The accommodation included a luxurious four poster bed and a cozy lounge area exclusively for my own use. The wonderful hosts, Bern and Jacq, welcomed me with open arms, providing me with a refreshing beer and ice upon my arrival, which was just what the doctor ordered after my long day walking.

Corner Cottage

After settling in a little and completing my exercises for the evening, I had a fabulous bath which helped greatly to sooth my weary muscles. Bern was then kind enough to drive me to a local pub/restaurant called The Smugglers Inn for dinner, where I enjoyed a delicious meal, lovely atmosphere and the summer's evening sun.

The Smugglers Inn

Afterward, he returned to pick me up, ensuring I had a comfortable journey back to the cottage. If that was not enough, they have also been online and donated! A testament to the incredible spirit of kindness that I have encountered throughout my journey along the South West Coast Path. Bern and Jacq, thank you, I am deeply touched and grateful and my stay here has been just fantastic.

I climbed into my four poster bed for the night, pulling up the covers, my eyes struggling to stay open. I said goodnight to Anna, like I always do, and switched off the light.

Two more days to go...