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June 25th: Exmouth to Beer

  • Writer: Phil Brown
    Phil Brown
  • Jun 28
  • 3 min read
View through the iconic trees at the end of Budleigh Salterton
View through the iconic trees at the end of Budleigh Salterton

Day 26. I left the wonderfully green Ash Hotel in Exmouth, a charming bed and breakfast with a warm, peaceful atmosphere. A lovely Indian couple ran the B&B, and they made every effort to ensure I felt comfortable, even upgrading my room to one with a bath, which was just perfect. I greatly appreciated their kindness and hospitality.


Before I set off on my journey today, I chatted with Pam, who had lost her husband in 2019, she is walking some of the Coast Path too. We shared our experiences, finding solace our shared understanding. We had a little cry together, and then we went our separate ways, each continuing on our respective paths and carrying the memories of our loved ones with us.


Farewell to Exmouth and onwards to Beer - where I will be sure to have a couple!
Farewell to Exmouth and onwards to Beer - where I will be sure to have a couple!

What a day it turned out to be. It was a tough day, over 3500 feet elevation gain and 23 miles, with some climbs reminiscent of the super challenging first week of this walk.




For a few days now I have had a growing rash on the back of my calf, which is starting to cause me some concern. Today I decided I should get it looked at. I met Martin, Liz and Jenny, more friends from the golf club, and they treated me to a lovely lunch in Sidmouth.


Martin, Liz and Jenny
Martin, Liz and Jenny

The leg of concern...
The leg of concern...

After our meal, I went to the pharmacy to get my leg looked at. The pharmacist, brow furrowed, expressed concern that it might be Lyme disease... sending a bit of a wave of anxiety through me. They recommended I see a doctor immediately. However, it wasn't possible to get an appointment in Sidmouth and I was concerned at the thought of delaying my days walking too long... So I phoned ahead to my friends in Beer who I would be staying with that night, to see if they could sort anything before I arrived. In the meantime I pressed on with my walk, determined not to let the worries weigh me down.



Steve and I with Branscombe in the background
Steve and I with Branscombe in the background

In Branscombe I met up with Steve, another friend from the golf club, and he walked with me to Beer. It was great to have some companionship today, especially while feeling concerned about what could be going on with my leg... I enjoyed the scenery too but admittedly was distracted and keen to get to Beer and the doctor.


Arriving in Beer!

Upon arriving in Beer, my friends Jane and Ivor were there to greet me with warm smiles and hugs. They quickly whisked me off to the Ottery St Mary Cottage Hospital, where I was hopeful for some clarity regarding my condition. After an examination, I received the welcome news that it was not Lyme disease but rather an insect bite that was causing my rash. The nurse reassured me that it should calm down in time, but I needed to keep an eye on it to ensure it didn’t worsen. However, she was more concerned about the open wound that was my burst blood blister on the side of my foot. She dressed it knowing I still had days left of my walk, and advised me to see my doctor as soon I return home to Cheltenham.


After the hospital visit, I enjoyed a late meal with Jane and Ivor, feeling grateful for their company and care, and to be staying in a familiar place. Then off to bed - a little later than I am used to - the busy day catching up with me.



By the end of the walk today, in total I have climbed over 100,000 feet! And with less than 100 miles to go, I feel more determined than ever to see this through to the end. Come on body hold it together, I can see the finish line!


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The Marine Gallery in Beer where Anna saw a painting she absolutely fell in love with... but it was expensive.


I ended up purchasing it over the phone and took her back a couple of weeks later for a short break, and surprised her in the gallery. Absolutely wonderful moment.




 
 
 

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Jun 29

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